Goldie Hyde Flooring November 19th, 2018 - 03:43:17
So my kitchen and dining room floor is a six-year-old, laminate that needed replacing from seams buckling and dents. I began, of course, by removing all the furniture in the room. Then I gave it a nice sweep and cleaning in order to remove the rooms trim. I used a knife to cut the caulk around my baseboards. Then I used a putty knife and a hammer to get in between the wall and the trim.
Once I had a little space to work with, I used a crowbar to fully remove the trim from the wall. I also removed obstacles like heat registers and then used the same putty knife and crowbar method to remove other trim around the floor, as well as the transition pieces between the carpet in our living room and the flooring in the kitchen and dining the laminate floor. That was installed was a floating floor, and so I got started on where the heat register was because it was already an open space.
I could begin to pull up to click together flooring. I also removed the foam underlayment that comes with many laminate floors. Don't forget, when you're doing this process, to move your appliances out of the way as the flooring obstacles underneath them. Under the floating laminate floor was also vinyl tiles. From the 80s. I decided to remove these as well. Then I was down to the subfloor. We vacuumed up all the pieces and debris and then I sanded away any rough spots and sticky adhesive when laying a floating floor.
The first row is the most important when sizing your first row. You want to measure the entire space that you'll be laying a floor divided by the width of the planks, and if the last row of flooring is going to be skinnier than 2 inches, you need to cut the first row accordingly. Use a straight line or a laser level as your jumping point to measure from frequently ensuring your first row delayed straight and parallel to the line. A floating floor needs a quarter inch of space around all sides, so it can expand and move.